“Well, we’re all attempting to find words and metaphors for processes that are …Timothy Leary During and Interview with Surfer Magazine 1978
hard to describe in words. Surfing has always had that problem, as you’ve already
suggested. One of the best ways of describing what we’re doing . . . is to
define our roles as “evolutionary surfers.”
Everything is made of waves. At the level of electrons and neutrons … it’s part of a wave theory. Historical waves — cultural waves.
The more you think about the evolutionary process, the more you see the fundamental structure of nature itself.
It’s the quantum theory . . . dealing with quantum leaps and quantum waves . . . things come packaged in sequential, cyclical, moving, ever-changing forms.
Surfing Taught me to develop a
sense of awareness of waves &
to become a weatherman
Surfing tunes you into a different way time flows.
You notice patterns. Lunar tides. Study the weather around the globe, because you know storms in New Zealand will hit your favorite surf break a few days later.
Surfing offers a mystical relationship with nature.
You also get in touch with the infinity
After a few years of surfing, it became an addiction.
I couldn’t go more than a few days without being in the water.
The old sense of worthlessness, and being uncomfortable in my own skin would come up after just 3 or 4 days. Even on flat days, I needed to just paddle out into the Abyss. Trading addictions is what addicts do.
So I quit, and tried to figure out how to create that sense of unity without a board and the ocean.
That took a while. Led me down some strange paths. I may have been in a cult at one point (bwahhahaaaa). Discovered yoga in the process. About 5 solid months of twice daily meditations that bookended an afternoon yoga session, I dropped into that place of timelessness yet again.
I immediately grabbed my board and ran down the streets of Venice Beach, California to the break-wall in front of the basketball courts, and paddled blissfully back into the abyss.
Don’t worry. It’s not about meditating and yoga. It’s about tuning into brain waves. It might not actually take 5 months of twice daily mediations and yoga to do it.
You can find a combination of life practices that work for you.
However you do it, when you tune into the turbulence of your own brain and notice how much it’s like the ocean it ebbs and flows. Your consciousness is far deeper. You are the abyss.
Physical surfing tunes you into nature, gets you on time, and out of your head once you get over the first part of the learning curve. Something about waves, ions, and being fully engaged in the moment dials you up. You find yourself “on time” all the time. And it’s amazing.
These days, I live in Texas. No ocean to paddle into. But, I still drop in every day.
Try to connect with the flow of time. Remind myself that…
Timing Is Everything
Music. Jokes. The way information flows to you… synchronicity.
You can practice being on Time — In Touch with Infinity: the moment. Where past connects to future. Your perspective.
Tune into the inner abyss. Find yourSELF. Timeless.
Feel the vibration of love. It’s waiting to be discovered inside of you. Take control of your own conscious evolution.
Study how evolution works
It’s all about timing.
Animals interact with the environment and over time are shaped to fill a purpose for that particular ecosystem.
DNA & epigenetic responses pass vital information from generation to generation.
In our own personal evolution, being in the right place at the right time, is more of a daily practice than anything. Let me say that differently….
You are always in the right place, at the right time.
And if you learn train your mind to focus, you can tune into your own timeless, infinite nature
— you can bend spacetime. Einstein gave us The General Theory of Relativity. E = MC2 …
That’s you. You are your own gravity. You possess an immense amount of atomic energy inside that such a fragile package of skin and bones. They say one paperclip is the power of 10 Hiroshima Bombs.
How powerful do you think you are?
The thing about being on Time.
Everything ebbs & flows.
There’s a time for laying back, chilling, getting in tune with your energy, and there is a time for action. You can train your brain & body and tune into that power….
the rhythm of your soul…
…your own core energy.
You are part of nature. And when we don’t slow down and train our minds, it’s easy to get pushed around by waves of energy pulsing through you, especially when your mind is filled with social norms, rules, and defense mechanisms leftover from childhood.
This is why I encourage you to slow down.
Press pause. Get stoked. Flow.
That’s what I mean by being a soul surfer.
Surfing is all out.
My friend took me surfing to teach me about a power greater than Tim.
I nearly drowned.
It took months for me to focus my attention, and be on the point… in the right place at the right time. When you’re on a wave, you have to be on that wave. You can’t think about anything else.
It’s you versus nature.
And nature will kill you. You can’t be half-hearted. You have to go full out. When you do, you become one with that wave, in the moment, completely free. All the stuff you experienced before that wave needs to be where it belongs… on land.
Because when that wave comes, you have to be ready to charge. Full out. Committed 100%.
I’m only interested in people who are willing to go and do it.
Not actual surfing.
That’s not required.
I’m talking about training your mind to focus, be in the moment. Unhurried. Unworried. At ease with the chaos and uncertainty. Ready to let go and be one with a power greater than that personality you formed so many years ago.
But, this doesn’t mean go all out all the time.
You can’t do that.
It’ll burn you out.
You might actually be feeling that right now.
Overwhelm. Frustration… like your life hit a bottleneck, and you can’t up-level certain things, because you’re too busy trying to keep it all togehter.
It’s easy to get sucked back into the Karmic Wheel remember your place. Fit in to society. Keep doing things, because that’s the way things are done.
It’s hard to unplug, press pause, and sit in your timelessness until it’s go time again. You’re brain will convince you that you gotta keep moving. Can’t sit still for even 1 minute, let alone 30.
Freeing your mind is a skill. Like any skill you will fail a lot at first. But, the more you practice, the more capacity you build.
If you have to pause several times a day, so be it.
Tune into your system. Carve out the sacred space inside you, that space between thoughts.
Pay attention, with intention, and you’ll know when you’re “off time” and when “you’re on time.”
Once you’re on time, your brain has the space to make new choices, and take appropriate actions. Remember, sometimes inaction is your best action.
It’s a practice.
Another things surfing taught me is to…
set yourself free
Mother Ocean makes you realize how insignificant you are.
When you’re sitting on top of an Abyss filled with fish that can eat you, and paddling into waves that will crush you…
You have to let go. Realize you’re not in control of too much. Clear your mind. Focus on your body. Pay attention to what the water is telling you, where the flow is, and bring yourself in tune with your surroundings.
When you drop into a wave, it’s like the perfect metaphor….
You’re on point, the past is pushing you forward into the future, and if you don’t stay on point, bad things happen.
But, if you stay on point, in the moment, consciously going with the flow into the future you envision, in touch with your past, without it sucking you under, then, my friend you will find your true power.
If you really pay attention, that power lies just under the sense of helplessness you try to avoid feeling. Vulnerability isn’t what we think it is. You have to let yourself go, so you can really be in tune with your own locus of control in this very moment.
It’s all about Self Perception
We all have two selfs.
Small self — ego, identity who needs things to happen so it can feel safe, secure, loved, and abundant.
Then you have you real Self — timeless, infinite intelligence that’s part of a Universal Intelligent Evolutionary Experience.
When you hear people talk about “Self Realization” that’s what they mean.
Realize your Self and see Self in others.
If you ever see me write the words “Note to self” it’s from Self.
About the Past
When the fin of a surfboard drags along the face of a wave it leaves a wake.
You do too.
And they both disappear. As do each of the waves you ride. Eventually, all waves dissipate onto the beach, and return to the Abyss.
Where you should return over and over again. All day long. Every day.
As a Surfer, you have to understand you can’t spend all day in the Abyss. You have to come to shore. Engage with the Land people again. And they won’t know their own timeless nature, so you can’t expect them to understand the flow of evolution.
You have to engage the world on the world’s terms.
This is True Freedom
To take time off to surf physical waves is an act of freedom and a practice of Self-Actualization.
Meditating and getting tuned into your own timeless nature, is the ultimate act of Freedom… when you get in touch with your own sovereign sense of “being,” you can have quite a different experience of life. The way you engage is all out… even when you’re engaged in a hammock. You’re relaxing and resting all out.
But, don’t get this twisted.
Your life is a daily practice.
The patterns you create, the environment you’re in, and the waves of thoughts & feelings are the results of your own daily practice.
And if it’s not what you want to experience, then you need to go to the source…
Your energy. That timeless state of being, and plant yourself firmly there. Listen. And get a feel for the real You that’s been trapped inside of a self that created rules that no longer apply.
True freedom happens when you see the world as it is, and you let go of worry. It’s not easy to do. We’re wired to seek and avoid danger.
You just have to train your brain to stop letting that wiring have control of it.
That takes time. Patience, like everything else in life is a skill.
Let me say that in a different way….
EVERYTHING is a Skill.
First, get in tune with your primitive self. Become more skillful at your own prediction and responses. Build your sense of safety in the real world.
As you’re practicing that on the daily, also dive into the abyss. Commune with your timeless nature. Let it guide you through the daily lessons.
That’s how you take control of your own evolution.
That’s what being a soul surfer is all about. It’s not passive. You don’t sit around hoping things will come to pass.
Your dream board isn’t a magical thing that will ‘manifest’ all the goodness. It’s just a visual reminder of things you will create. Everything is waves — including your desires. Instead of looking outside to for the answers, go in… to the source.
Your next step is to create the future, to take responsibility for it.
It’s your reality. Choose it. Make it happen.
I want to help you actualize yourself, your body and your minds. As you do, you will begin to notice other men and women who are doing the work. Free people have a certain vibe, even if they don’t share the same politics, customs, or world views.
Free people let other people, have their own experience of life.
When you meet them, they’ll know you right away. Link up with them. Go change the world.
Create a better tomorrow.
No need to convince or covert.
Stop arguing with people who will never see it your way.
You be you boo.
Hope this helps,
love your face!
Reach out if you want some help with it.